The latest Lonely Planet guide to Great Britain has nice things to say about Essex. After mentioning all the stereotypes of chavs and rundown seaside resorts, it then describes “a rural idyll of medieval villages and rolling countryside”. This is exactly what we encountered a few days ago when we visited Saffron Walden. As the name suggests, its wealth came from the Crocus Sativus, cultivated locally for about 400 years until the end of the 18th century. Saffron Walden has the biggest parish church in Essex which reminded me of some of the “wool” churches in Suffolk when I saw it from a distance. It has a peal of twelve bells, one of the largest rings in Essex. ( Of course, all this “biggest/largest” does sound a bit stereotypical Essex.) Bellringers of the past have quite a few records to their credit, which reminded me of the Dorothy L. Sayers’ book “The Nine Tailors”.
There are quite a lot of very old buildings, Grade 1 and Grade 2 listed, kept in good repair. It is a pleasure to follow the Town Trail round the narrow streets. The castle is now in ruins – I suspect it’s been decaying since Henry II rendered it indefensible in 1158.
The Lonely Planet Guide also states that Britain is now very expensive. I’m sure that depends on the locality. We had two excellent Ploughman’s Lunches and drinks for £15. I’m never quite sure just how up-to-date the Lonely Planet’s research is. I’ve found before that what they print is no longer the case. I think that the credit crunch has made cafés and restaurants more aware of the need to offer real value for money. But Saffron Walden itself is worth a visit; a pleasant little town rich in history. Yet I’m sure many tourists do not know of its existence and just head for Cambridge.
http://www.picturesofengland.com/England/Essex/Saffron_Walden
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