Le Puy is in the Auvergne, an area best known for its volcanic plugs often surmounted by a small chapel or religious statue. Unfortunately when we visited last week, the closest one was surrounded by scaffolding and not open to visitors. Le Puy is also renowned for its lentils – or lintels, according to Baedeker. There are certainly some very interesting buildings in the old town which is quite unspoiled.
The volcanic stone has been used in the construction of streets and buildings, including the impressive cathedral which has a large number of steps to what originally appears to be the entrance, and then an equally large number to actually get inside. My legs have now recovered.
The volcanic rock can give a rather gloomy appearance to some buildings, but can also provide an attractive pattern.
The other famous local product is lace and there is a fair choice of shops selling handmade items. Many of them have a lace pillow with a pattern pricked out and the bobbins on display outside the shop.
This particular shop also had a lace-making machine on display inside to show the difference between machine-made and hand-made lace.
I got into conversation with the owner and explained that I knew a little about lace-making in Buckinghamshire through having been voluntary curator of a small local museum. Many French people still come to Le Puy to buy special items such as baptismal gowns. I now know how to tell the difference between machine and hand-made lace and to recognise the little flowers that are the trademark of Le Puy lace. It’s always a pleasure to talk to the experts and learn something new.
Thankfully the sun finally came out, just as we were leaving, to light up this little square.
Boadicea's Chariot 
What a beautiful little town.
I do so admire their use of the differing volcanics in the paving to achieve the colour patterns.
Interestingly Puy lentils are one of the few French products available here locally. Being a terribly ex hippy sort of place and home for flower children fled from California the local city, Bellingham, is beset by sandal wearers, yogic vegetarians and lentil eaters, all sold from the exceptionally worthy self introspecting local Co-op. Fortunately they are not averse to accepting the cash of less PC customers! The other big obsessions are tofu and quinoa!
Not surprised that half of them look so whey faced, creased and crooked on a diet like that!
I love the handmade lace, I am fortunate to have more than my fair share. My sister was head honcho of Bedfordshire Lacemakers Assoc. for a good 20 years until she retired to Devon. She gave up making it herself in favour of starting her own embroidery company, also the really fine stuff is a bit of a bugger on the eyes. I’ve noted that the older ones do it by rote, they know the traditional patterns of their area and throw the bobbins without even looking at them. If you ever go to Madeira they sell some lovely stuff in the North of the Island.
Several of those pictures are extremely reminiscent of small towns in Wales, however the frogs appear to have had the good sense to ban cars! Very sensible too! I wish they would do the same at home.
Lovely blog, thank you.
What a wonderful place, Shoena!
I think your photographs captured the essence of the place beautifully. It’s a shame, but one misses some of the most interesting places in France by doing as I have done, dashing through to the south, visiting friends in places, or heading for Spain.
I must, at some point, consider doing a rather more leisurely trip, but there is so much to see.
Thank you, Christina. When I think of lacemakers working by candlelight, even with those water-filled globes to reflect that light, I feel sorry for the eye-strain they must have suffered. The paving in the streets reminded us of the Azores where they also have a lot of volcanic rock to use. The house on the right in the third picture has Roman origins as you can see from the arches..
Yes, Araminta, there is a lot of France to see. It is a beautiful country and I shall put up some more photos of this latest trip. The arrival of low-cost airlines using smaller local airports does make visiting lesser known areas much easier, without paying a fortune in tolls.
lovely post, Sheona
Lovely post, Sheona! The pictures are wonderful. Now I want to go to France…