The flight to Korea was long, but generally pleasant. That Asiana is rated one of the best airlines in the world is understandable. The service is decent (though Cathay Pacific is better, I think) and the in-flight entertainment is acceptable. (Again, Cathay Pacific’s is much, much better) The seat was comfortable and there was more space than I have sadly grown used to. The flight was not completely full and only two out of the three seats in my row were filled. The other passenger, an intelligent and pleasant man on his way to New Delhi via Seoul, a certain Mr Singh, helped to pass the time with conversation ranging from Sikh history and philosophy to discussions on the finer points of Nehru and Jinnah’s policies during the end of the Raj. The food on the flight was also quite good. It tasted much like something that could be found at a decent restaurant.
I arrived yester-day evening and found my hotel without too much ado. Well, almost. Seoul is a rather large city, albeit one that is very well organised and convenient. The problem is that at times crossing the street is a bit confusing. In some places automobile traffic is so heavy that it’s simply unsafe to cross above ground. Hence, a network of exits that go in many different directions and are often easy to miss. After walking a mile with 2 pieces of luggage I finally realised that I had walked out the wrong door and had to return.
Today went a bit better, though there was still some frustration. I visited two palaces and the cultural shopping district. The palaces were quite simple to find. The entrance fee was also extremely modest. The first was 1000 won, 56p in proper money. It is the smallest of Seoul’s palaces, but a very accessible and pleasant place with splendid architecture and wide variety of it. The oldest building dates to the 16th century, the newest to the cuff of the 19th and 20th. The evolution of styles was quite striking, from a standard Chinese-style building to a structure which was as much Roman in style as it was East Asian.
The second palace is the largest of the three, a vast set of structures which was modelled on the Forbidden City in China. The cost of entering was a staggering 3,000 won — the whole of £1.68. The complex was simply too large for me. I did not manage to see all of it, but the 70pc or so that I managed to visit took the better part of 3 hours. The setting was inspiring, to say the least. Korea is a mountainous country, and Seoul is surrounded by them. In the background were some of the highest peaks in the region, rocky mountains leaping out of the ground like frogs jumping out of pots.
Strangely, the palaces felt dead. As is often the case in East Asia, the majority of treasures formerly housed in the structures have long been removed. They are not conducive to preserving things, not having been built quite to the same standard as Balmoral or Versailles. Lovely structures and solid, but built of wood and paper. Many of the buildings were also closed to visitors, this in order to prevent the inevitable — and irreparable — damage wrought by tens of thousands of visitors walking over wood floors.
Finding the cultural shopping district, Insa-dong, was frustrating. It’s easy to lose oneself in Seoul, though not too badly. That particular district is also hidden away in the back alleys of a part of Seoul with many, many hidden alleys and winding paths. I did find it, though. I also bought perhaps too much celadon, one of Korea’s best products and a matter of national pride. It’s almost invariably simple, but of high quality.
Between the two I had a very late lunch, an early dinner, really. I was hungry and tired, almost desperate to sit down and eat something, anything. No one there spoke German, or English, for that matter, and the choice of dinner was settled by looking at a picture — spicy ribs. I’m not sure what meat it was, though. It didn’t taste like pork and the texture was not beef. OZ, you’re still there, right?
Boadicea's Chariot 
Hiya Christopher. Yup, still here and reading avidly. Never been to Korea, so can’t help you with the type of rib. If it’s not pork or beef, one would presume lamb, cross your fingers, hope for the best and get stuck in. 🙂
OZ
OZ,
You dumb wolf, he was suggesting that the origins of the dish may have been canine, perhaps even lupine. 😦
Doh! That’s what happens when you think more of food than cannibalism. 😦
OZ
Now, I envy you that flight! Less said about Air Canada the better! To get from here to the UK I have the enviable choice of Air Canada or British Airways! Talk about Scylla and Charybdis!!
It is amazing that those palaces have lasted that long at all in that climate, they must be very assiduous in their repairs.
Less said about that dinner the better!
Fascinating stuff for this armchair traveller. Who, as you know, has no intention of going further than the end of the garden.
Be careful to pack the china, best off in bubble wrap and then solid pack it in a box with no movement. Even safer if you double box it. Shipping china is one thing I seriously DO know about. Do try to carry it as hand luggage if you can.
More tales please.
Christopher, ’twas in Seoul that, feeling the need for relief in afine restaurant, I repaired to the rest room, where as I stood in my stall a rodent the size of a cat scampered across my feet and down a drain. Happy days!
Glad you have arrived safely, Christopher and really fascinating stuff!
I love to travel vicariously, it’s so much less hassle. 🙂
Christina: I am notoriously “difficult” when it comes to flying. On short flights, say, Sacramento to Orange County it’s not that important and I’ll go with the cheapest, so long as it’s not United or American. Longer flights… The travel agent tried to get me to agree to fly with United, I told her that I’d just as well pack myself into a box and post myself with UPS. It was worth the effort.
The wonderful thing about Koreans is that they value quality and are almost militantly proud of their products. Hence, the woman at the porcelain store examined my selections carefully to ensure that there were no defects, putting one back saying that the colour on the other was better — which was true. She then wrapped it in tissue paper before wrapping it again in bubble wrap and then putting each piece into its own box. On my end, I made sure to keep my carry-on bag virtually empty and enough space in my checked-baggage for anything not fragile.
OZ: you live! You live! Thank goodness, I was worried that you ended up in a pot with onions, rice cakes, and hot chilli sauce! They were quite delicious, actually, so I at least have that. (No, it’s not lamb — I’m quite familiar with that)
Janus: I’ve found it to be quite clean and the people helpful. The worst place I’ve ever been was a town in China, Hsi-t’ang. There was rubbish on every roof and dead rats and fish floating in the canals. Korea changes quickly, and for the better.
Very good Christopher, a nice read, why no pictures ❓
Talking about entry fees, I took 7 of the Quest children to our local swimming pool on Thursday, the cost, 4 Rand each! (33p)
Arrers, definitely – and one gets to choose one’s company too!
Soutie: because I’m as technology-challenged as ever and don’t want to bother the forum management with my unspeakable ineptitude.