A big puddle

Reading Janus’s post mentioning the African Queen reminded me of our two visits to the Neusiedlersee in Austria this summer. This lake is the only steppe lake in Europe outside of Russia. It is fed by rainfall and some springs, but has no river or streams running into it and only one small stream running out of it at the Hungarian end. So it is in fact a very large puddle, sometimes known as Austria’s seaside, with massive reed beds.

Our first visit was to Podersdorf, a pretty little resort on the eastern shore. It is the only settlement that has direct access to the lake with no reed beds and has beaches, a little pier and lots of cafes and restaurants, where you can try the lake fish, char, pike, carp and smoked eel.

It is a very neat little town, where access to the beaches must be paid for. After lunch we rented a pedalo and went out a bit for a swim. The lake is no deeper than two metres anywhere.

Our second visit was to the very attractive, old town of Rust on the western bank, which is famous for its storks who return every year about May to nest on the chimney stacks, or rather on the platforms provided to keep the chimneys clear.

Rust is also renowned for the wine it produces from the surrounding vineyards and the main square is well provided with shady terraces on which to sample it.

Rust’s lakeside area is surrounded by reed beds, but we hired a motor boat to explore. At one point husband did suggest that we could try an African Queen adventure through the reeds, but we decided we hadn’t time.

There are other settlements around the lake, which is a World Heritage Site, and little steamers to link them. I’m not sure how the Iron Curtain’s rigidity was maintained in the southern end of the lake,  which is in Hungary.  The gate that was opened between Hungary and Austria is very close, so I suspect the curtain was a bit fragile there.

3 thoughts on “A big puddle”

  1. Thanks for this, Sheona.

    Your first paragraph and the title made me feel it was not a place to visit, but further reading and your photos makes it sound rather more interesting.

  2. Nice one Sheona.

    Lake George, just outside Canberra, is one of those “big puddles” too, and like this one does not usually exceed a depth of about 6 feet. There are, however, regular drownings. People fall off their windsurfers and become entangled in underwater traps such as vegetation or barbed wire fences.

    Lake George cycles between fullness and near emptiness over a 10 or 12 year cycle. When it’s mainly dry, it’s used for grazing – hence the fences.

  3. The Neusiedlersee has also been known to dry up at times, but not over such a long period. Barbed wire fences sound distinctly hazardous for swimmers.

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