Once you leave Millau behind you are firmly in southern France. The autroute crosses the beautiful plateau de Larzac. Home to one of the more interesting personalities in French politics, José Bové, our best known shepherd, destroyer of Macdonalds and enemy of genetically modified crops. A pretend peasant who spent part of his upbringing in California and can tell the American distributors of modified corn why he doesn’t like their products in their own language. The craggy rocks like bent over old ladies dot the lansdscape with its sparse scraggy vegetation. Then the road plunges spectacularly off the plateau and down onto the coastal plane. We are heading for our overnight stopover in the foothills of the Cevennes. But first a quick shopping expedition in Montpellier. A pleasant city recently credited with having the best quality of life in France.
Onto our B &B
carefully selected from le Routard, the best guide for travellers in Europe.
A tiny town with streets so narrow that I have to retract the wing mirrors before approaching the hotel.
And what a great surprise. It is a 16th century convent that has recently been restored by a young couple, Delphine and Richard (no less). They have undertaken the work with so much care that we have to crawl under the wash basin to plug in my shaver for no electric cables are allowed on 16 th century walls. It was later a winery and the enormous stone vats for fermenting the wine are still in the outbuilding.
We collapse in our room just under the roof with the most extraordinary beams I think I have ever seen. Breakfast is a delight we learn that Richard’s father is a reasonably well known artist and Delphine is a great cook. Freshly baked bread and cake for breakfast and superb home made jam. Delphine is also passionate about her garden and is quickly quizzing me about how she could improve it. A delightful chat a tour of the convent arrangements for a return visit this summer, but time is moving on, we have an appointment.
Boadicea's Chariot 
Nice post MoO, did you charge her for your advice or arrange some sort of offset with your accommodation bill? 😉
(Oh by the way, I’ll stick a ‘more’ tag in your post for you, see the FAQ’s for an explanation)
Hello MoO
Nice to see you writing such a nice blog. I traveled through France four years ago, and rated it as the best European country for a holiday.
I know what you mean when you say the streets are narrow. We picked up a brand new Renault in Paris from Euro-drive and spent the first night in the old City of Dijon. The Hotels car park was an old horse stable, which made me smile as it was the perfect place for a brand new car to spent the night.
I would go back to France in a flash, great scenery, magnificent food and despite what one hears, very nice people.
I hope you enjoy it on this site Richard, no need to get nasty around here mate.
Richard, c’est toi?!
MoO – Interesting post. Welcome here and hope you have left your alter ego on t’other side. Smiley thing.
OZ
Hi Soutie thanks. Well as I said we have arranged to go back this summer and they are giving us the best room with a huge bathroom at the same rate that we paid this time for our slightly less upmarket boudoir.I can’ wait to get back and eat the cake.
Hi claire oui c’est moi.
RIchard; quel plaisir! On a annule ta page, sur MyT – je ne sais pas si t’es au courant, et on croyait qu’on n’allait plus te voir! J’ecris sans les accents – desole! C’est la ou tu habites, en Auvergne? 😉
Nice post, moo. 🙂
Claire, just do Alt Gr and the letter and you needn’t be desolé 🙂 (don’t know about the other accents).
MoO
You can create an avatar picture (they call them Gravatars here) at
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Here’s a suggestion for you 😉
Hey Brendano; our computer doesn’t do them. Stuck in dark ages, ya know!
Can’t hang about; got job interview tomorrow!
Good luck with that, Claire.
Thank you Brendano! It’s my birthday as well tomorrow, would you believe!
But can you arrange for someone to cut my tinternet tonight, so I have the self discipline to get an early night for once?!
Why not ask your husband to turn off the modem at 10:30 pm?
Was that the owners’ wishes – or local / government regulations? Whichever, a nice touch… there is nothing worse than snakes of wires climbing up old walls.
I like the sound of your José Bové!
Hi boa. Bové is an interesting personality and great self publicist. he went to gaol for organising the destruction of a Macdonalds. The police were to pick him up at his farm to take him to prison. The loacl peasants organised an alert system to avoid his capture. but the police moved in with a helicopter and grabbed him. So he did his gaol time.
no they are just purists and want their house to look very sixteenth century. we had to operate the light with our foot as we enterd the room.
Sounds as though your convent was well worth a visit, MoO.
Good to see you here.
I’m not sure I approve of the destruction of property – however, my sentiments regarding Macdonalds, both of their product and the company, is quite unprintable here! And as for GM food – I don’t have any objections to it being grown anywhere, so long as it isn’t on this planet…
Nice touch… although I’m pleased that one is not expected to do without modern conveniences entirely. I’m not too sure that I’d want to cope with 16th C sanitation!