If you’re not familiar with the West Country, there are two seaside resorts of note on the English side of the Bristol Channel; Weston-super-Mare and Clevedon.
If Weston is the noisy lively teenager, all arcades-kiss-me-quick-candyfloss-and-donkey rides on the sand, Clevedon, the seaside town just to the north, is it’s restrained decorous maiden aunt.
It always seemed thus to us anyway. With two boys and a dog to amuse Weston-super-Mare was the favourite. Ten pin bowling, a visit to the nearest amusement arcade for Outrun, Sega rally or a shoot-em-up game, an air hockey tournament on the end of the pier and then a long leisurely stroll along the beach to Uphill while chucking a frisbee about and trying not to let the dog run off and bury it.
In comparison, the boys found Clevedon boring. We’d park up next to the flat grassy recreation area behind the sea wall and they might look briefly at the small traditional kids playground, we’d have a dog walk up the path over the cliff but that was about it.
Walking in the opposite direction there was a section of rock optimistically described as the beach and a view of the wrecked pier – dilapidated and abandoned since disaster struck during load-testing in l970 when the two end spans buckled and collapsed into the sea.
Every time we visited Clevedon, we gazed out at the forlorn wreckage of the pier and wondered why someone wasn’t renovating it. My mother had spoken of cross-channel voyages on the Waverley paddle steamer and landings at Clevedon. She knew how to live, our mam.
So when I revisited Clevedon recently, it was a lovely surprise to find that not only has the sad little pier been fully restored, it is in fact a Celebrated Pier; the only intact Grade I listed pier in the country. It’s both a credit to the Victorians and the pride of Clevedon.
The surroundings had also been refreshed considerably with stylish iron railings and a variety of bars and restaurants with sitting out space, continental style, from which to watch the sunset over the low hills of Wales. Ahem. No such luck the day I was there but I should imagine, at the height of summer, with a cocktail to hand, it could be very pleasant.
Even on a chilly grey day, the pier is a construction of rare elegance and beauty, with slim graceful arches stretching out into the Bristol Channel towards Penarth and a pretty little iron and glass construction (cafe upstairs) perched at the end plus sheltered seating areas. Its eight spans were made from rails surplus to Brunel’s requirements which he built the South Wales railway.
It was also the first pier built on mathematical principles to cope with, remarkably, the second highest tide range in the world.
While I only discovered it a few weeks ago, the world is about to discover it as it’s featured in “Never Let Me Go” the film of Kashuo Ishiguro’s excellent book which is on general release.
The film crew had long gone when I was there. Walking along the plain boarded walkway, most of the wooden planks beneath my feet were sponsored and the barriers either side are studded with brass plaques from all those who have contributed to the restoration. Many of them are in memory of someone passed on, others are tributes to the living, there are marriage proposals and among all the others, a rather larger plaque marked Griff Rhys Jones.
With a windchill factor of minus 2, the fishermen lining both sides of the pier hoping to catch codling and sea bass were muffled up in several coats each and equipped with flasks and refreshments.
Meanwhile down the “beach” (yes they do call it that. Perhaps there is a smidgeon of sand right up against the esplanade wall that I didn’t notice) three hardy souls – two men and a woman, were trudging, dripping, out of the freezing, brown Bristol channel. Yes, it was Saturday the 29th January 2011 and the men wore Speedos.
There must be a tradition in Clevedon for swimming all the year round. There is also a tradition for swimming long distances – right across the Bristol Channel and back in some cases. The youngest and fastest person to swim the Bristol Channel from Penarth to Clevedon was a 17 year old, Gary Carpenter in five hours 35 minutes in 2007.
Another plaque on the pier commemorates Steve Price’s first ever nonstop Clevedon to Penarth return swim – a distance of 30 miles – in 15 hours 43 minutes and 17 seconds on 2 September 1994.
I do hope they were both sponsored. Looking at the colour of the channel water and feeling the keen bite of the winter breeze, I think every penny was well deserved.
Boadicea's Chariot 
Clevedon sounds positively delightful.
Hello Jahn – really interesting, perhaps I’ll take my grandson there one afternoon, the miniature railway looks more interesting than the one in Weston and a visit to the Piers will cost me a lot less.
PS Don’t forget the film ‘The Remains of the Day’
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0107943/usercomments?start=100
‘If you’re not familiar with the West Country, there are two seaside resorts of note on the English side of the Bristol Channel; Weston-super-Mare and Clevedon.’
Janh1, it’s not often that I take any issue with any of your posts, excellent as they always are. Apart, of course, from offering helpful comments on your spelling and/or grammar but that’s just because I always strive to be a little ray of sunshine in every possible way.
But, on West Country ‘seaside resorts of note on the English side of the Bristol Channel’ and your assertion that the only two worth mentioning are WSM and Clevedon? What’s your problem with Minehead and Ilfracombe?
Former a wee thing trippery and Butliny, to be fair, but a fine railway there from Taunton and I am not personally convinced that there’s very much wrong with Ilfracombe at all.
I could, as ever, be wrong and, when I think about it, it is probably their lack of proximity to Cheltenhamshire that placed them well beyond your ken when travelling with the two boys and a dog.
Whatever, next time we’re down there, I’ll give Clevedon a whirl on your recommendation.
I went to Weston-super-Mare when I was six – I don’t remember it being much fun! But we weren’t there for a holiday, so perhaps it has always been as lively as you describe and I just missed out!
Cleveden does sound delightful – and how great that the pier has been restored.
One day, when I’m not constrained by visits to relatives, I shall have to take a tour of England and visit all the places I never got to when I lived there!
What a lovely post Jan. I have visited Cleveden and WSM, but not for many years, so my memories are fairly vague. Your photographs of the pier are lovely, photos of pier always remind me childhood holidays, I was always a little scared walking along them, probably due to my cousin telling me I’d fall through and into the sea. I still think of this when I walk the pier here at home. We should maintain these structures, they have beauty of their own, especially with candy floss in your hand.
As I’ve already mentioned I’m easily distracted – so are Weston Super Mare and Clevedon Bristol Channel seaside resorts? It seems that it depends on whether or not you can include an ‘estuary’ in a ‘channel’. If you can then where does the channel end? I will tend to go with the following: –
The Severn Estuary discharges into the Bristol Channel
http://www.severnestuary.net/sep/gallery/imagemap.htm
Clevedon, WSM, Minehead, are on the Estuary.
If you are navigation the ‘channel’ it’s a bit academic where it becomes an estuary.
http://www.shipais.com/currentmap.php?map=BristolChannel
But if the channel ends where the estuary begins, then the resorts are on both the channel and the estuary.
http://www.worldatlas.com/aatlas/infopage/bristolc.htm
If you intend to sail here from Scotland or Australia, then from what I’ve read I would recommend boats with engines.
Now I’m going for my coffee!
I even think of Bude as being on the Bristol Channel.
Lovely post, Jan.
Makes me want to visit.
I remember WSM from school trips…. and once arriving when the sea was out…. Weston Super Mud we called it. Mare? Pah!
I have never visited a West Country pier, although that omission could be rectified on a trip we are making in May to attend a wedding in a field somewhere in Dorset (she runs a stable, or do they call it a yard? – ask no more).
However I have visited a pier in the early morning hours on a trip to the south coast, a few years ago; not a soul was to be seen – dawn was breaking in May, as I wandered along the promenade from my hotel. I wonder if any of the Pier Cognoscenti can identify it from these images?
CJW
It isn’t either Brighton or Worthing Pier, both of which I know fairly well – so how about Eastbourne?
I’ve only been down to this neck of the woods once recently and that was for a flying visit to Weston,never even heard of Clevedon, but I have now. Must say I do like the pictures especially of the detailing, It looks like a very good job has been done.
Boadicea – It is in fact Worthing, where I was staying at the Beach Hotel. I was collecting an aircraft from Shoreham nearby, later in the day to bring it up to Kinloss. These, (taken at 05:49!) may jog your memory – one is of the Dome Cinema on the Promenade, and the other of the beach looking westwards at low tide, both taken from the pier. Since the photo was taken another structure has sprung up on the beachfront to the west of the pier, as I can see from GooglerEarth:
CWJ
I’m going to get my eyes tested!
My mother lives in Hove – one of the first and last places we visit is Worthing – there is a restaurant on the beach which always has grilled skate on the menu (a trip to the UK without skate is no trip) – Obviously, I’ve allowed my taste buds to cloud my eyes… 🙂
Off topic, CWJ, but since you mention Shoreham airport –
I used to work for a company that had premises just across the river from the airport. It can get quite foggy there in the autumn, and one such day we were gathered in the Board Room on the first floor, with the lights full on. A sudden noise interrupted us, and we glanced out to see a helicopter hovering outside the windows, a few feet above the river.
The pilot made signs that appeared to be asking where the airport was; we pointed enthusiastically in the right direction, the pilot waved his thanks and edged off slowly on the indicated path. There were no reports of a crash, so we assume he found his pad safely.
Wasn’t you, was it? 😆
Lots of nice pics. Glad I looked in today.
Very nice, Jan. I wish I had your photographic eye.
OZ
Not me, Bearsy, the only helicopter-like device I have ever been in, was an Autogyro as passenger/photographer during the Moray floods a couple of years ago, flown by the owner, who is one of the few men certified to pilot the remaining Spitfire(s) at displays. I felt like I was perched on a milking stool – completely unnerving sensation until I became used to not having a cockpit around me. It was a great platform for aerial photography, though.
Shoreham Airport is a marvellously Art Deco building – I can imagine a trail of Flappers (as opposed to Slappers) emerging for their flight across the Channel in the 1920s…
I didn’t take a photo of the terminal building which I can find right now, but here is one, from Flickr:
Thanks Christopher and Peter – I’d forgotten the connection with the Remains of the Day – exterior shots were filmed at Dyrham Park. Connections, connections! 🙂
Now then, Mr Mackie, I fail to see how there can be any comparison between the two resorts I’m talking about, Minehead and Ilfracombe. Geographically, they are much further south and in the broader reaches of the Bristol Channel. Minehead I know slightly. Butlins when I was about ten and probably the worse holiday I ever had. One day in “der Camp” was enough for my bro and I. The rest of the week we got daily passes to go out on to the beach. Incidentally, last time I was there, the authorities had cocked up a flood prevention scheme, changed the wave patterns and succeeded in scouring the beach of sand! Ilfracombe? Totally lacking in character. Once you’ve bought your bucket and spade, you’re done.
But do try Clevedon. V good family run Italian restaurant Il Giardinos, on the front overlooking “the beach.” 🙂
How are you David?
Hi Boa. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend Weston – depends what mood you are in as to whether it’s ghastly or great fun. 😉
Hi Val – as a kid I used to avoid looking down through the cracks too!
Should I have referred to these places as “estuary resorts” then Peter? Doesn’t have the same appeal somehow…
Love that shot of the art deco airport, cwj!
Blimey, Bearsy, it’s worrying when a helicopter pilot has to pause to ask the way to the airport!! 😀
Thanks David and OZ. It wasn’t the best day for pics,as you can see but better shot than not!
Bearsy, were you not involved in Air Traffic Control? Maybe the guy recognized you…
Janh, for the sake of good order, the art deco airport shot was taken from flickr – clicking on it will lead you to the photographer, but it wasn’t me – and it is a good shot!
Hi cwj. That’s very honorable of you making sure the credit goes where it’s due. I seem to remember you did post a pic of it some time ago in one of your “where is this?” quizzes 🙂
You have a good memory: I thought I had taken a photo of it but obviously hadn’t tagged it carefully enough as I couldn’t find my own – it will be hiding amongst about 50,000 other images!